1/27/08:  Late this afternoon I gave a friend a ride home; as we passed a “touchless” car wash I commented that I’d love to get the salt and grime off my car – but I didn’t dare as it was only 14ºF out – and was afraid that the doors would freeze shut before I could get home.

But when I arrived home I remembered that I could wash the car – in the garage and out of the wind.  I mixed up a quick 2 gallon batch of a “no rinse” car wash and put another couple of gallons of water (WARM water in both cases!) in a second 5 gallon bucket equipped with a “grit guard.”  Finally, I took an empty spray bottle and put about 12 oz. or so of the no rinse wash in it.

Next I took about 5 minutes to liberally spray the no rinse solution over the hood, trunk lid, wheels and sides of the car.  I also hit a couple of spots on the roof which had some salt spray.  Then, I grabbed a couple of quality microfiber towels and went to work on the car with the bucket of the no-rinse solution, carefully removing all the dirt, salt and grime with a cloth – and then rinsing the cloth in the plain water/rinsing bucket.

15 minutes later there was about a gallon or so of water on the floor of the garage and the car was spotless.  I did all of this while wearing the clothes I’d worn to work – plus a jacket, of course.

What is “no rinse” car wash?  Here’s a quick definition from the people who make the brand I’ve been using:

Add 1 ounce of No Rinse Wash & Shine to 2 gallons of water to make an excellent no rinse car wash. Soak a quality microfiber towel in the solution and wash your vehicle with the wet towel. Dry each section with another microfiber towel. There’s no need to rinse! The lubricants and substantive polymers in the formula will protect your vehicle from abrasion as it safely cleans all vehicle surfaces. The polymers encapsulate dirt and cause it to drop to the bottom of the bucket. No Rinse Wash & Shine actually cleans the wash water as it cleans your vehicle! And it leaves your vehicle super slick, like it was just waxed!

To give you a better idea of how the process works, check out this brief (2′ 20″) video:

In the written description and the video, no mention of pre-treating with a sprayer is made, but I’ve always felt safer (regarding not putting swirl marks in the clear coat) by loosening up the grit and grime by doing this first.

A number of manufacturers make “no rinse” car washes.  I’ve been using Optimum No Rinse for a couple of years now and have been very happy with the results.  A 32 oz. bottle sells for ~$16, and is enough for 32 washes.  In actual practice, I only do this a few times each winter…  so a bottle will last quite a while.

Here’s a link to Optimum ONR at Autogeek.net:  Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine.   NOTE that I have no connection to Autogeek or Optimum (or to DetailingGurus.com either.)  If you live in a northern climate, give a “no rinse” car wash a try!

Ask anyone who’s involved in the automotive aftermarket or service business what happens when the cost of gas escalates rapidly, and the answer you receive will be consistent:  people put off servicing their cars.

It’s a fact. Faced with a dollar that doesn’t go as far, a lot of drivers will begin extending oil change intervals and ignoring basic service requirements.  This is NOT a risk-free approach to saving a few dollars on your car, however.

Ignore oil and filter changes, and you could damage your car’s engine.  Pay no attention to tire pressure and rotating your tires, and they can wear prematurely, requiring replacement long before they normally would. Have a dirty engine air filter, and your gas mileage will suffer.

Simply ignoring your car’s basic maintenance requirements will cost you MORE in the long run.

So as the economy slows and we all watch our finances more closely, are there any sensible steps a car owner can take to reduce auto maintenance costs? Absolutely. And they apply to any time – whether the economy’s booming or in recession. Best of all, you don’t need to be a mechanic or even mechanically inclined to put these strategies in place!

Simple steps that will save you money…

These are the basic “gotta do’s” that you can’t ignore.  The good news:  do them and you’ll actually SAVE money in the long run:

• Oil / Filter Changes: Thanks to the quick lube industry, many of us have gotten the idea that our car’s engine oil and filter needs to be changed every 3,000 miles.  Most modern vehicles call for oil and filter changes every 7,500 miles; check your owner’s manual. Unless you drive in extreme conditions – lots of very short trips, extreme temperatures, very dusty / dirty conditions, you should choose the regular maintenance schedule as reviewed in your owner’s manual – and it’ll likely call for oil change intervals in the 7,500 to 10,000 mile range.

If you observe the 3,000 mile interval, you’re wasting money.  Check your Owner’s Manual and service your vehicle accordingly.

• Oil changes:  Dealer vs. Quick Lube: If your car is new, you may feel that you have to bring it back to the dealer for simple services like oil changes, for fear of voiding your warranty.  This is not necessary.  Take it wherever you prefer, and SAVE YOUR RECEIPTS.  The manufacturer of your vehicle cannot void your warranty because you used an aftermarket filter, per the Magnusson-Moss Act. If the local Jiffy Lube is considerably cheaper than your dealer for oil changes, by all means bring your car there.  You are gaining nothing by having the dealer’s tech change your filters.

NOTE: if you have concerns about what oil filter the quick lube will use on your car, buy several OE filters from your dealer and the quick lube will install them and give you a small credit.  By the way: it doesn’t make a whole lot of difference what filter you use, if you’re observing the recommended change interval.  Most modern filters will exceed the engine’s basic requirements by a healthy margin if the proper interval is observed.  You can buy the OE filter if you like, but keep in mind that no automobile manufacturer actually manufactures filters – they are manufactured for the OE by another firm. (The same is true, of course for quick lubes.) If you live in a large metropolitan area – NYC, L.A., etc. – be wary of filters installed at quick lubes; they may be Chinese or Korean imports, and the media used may be of lesser quality than U.S. made filters.

One other quick note: pay attention to the type of drain plug washer or drain plug itself that your car requires. If it’s non-standard, buy several and provide one to the quick lube each time you have your oil changed.

• Maintain proper tire pressure: for safety and long tire life, check your tire pressure periodically – at least once every week or so.  Over- or under-inflated tires will wear unevenly and prematurely, and under-inflated tires can be dangerous.  It’s popular to suggest that you over-inflate your tires by 3-4lbs. to improve fuel economy.  Don’t do it – inflate to the pressure recommended by the manufacturer. Checking your pressure takes only a few moments – pick up a gauge and put it in your console or glovebox. Consumer Reports reviewed a number of gauges last year, and their top pick was a ~$6 pencil-style gauge available at NAPA stores.  For those who aren’t familiar with how to check your tire pressure, here’s a quick video on the subject from Ford:

• Rotate your tires: Again, in order to maximize tire life, rotate your tires periodically… usually at 7,500 mile intervals. If you’ve purchased tires from a tire warehouse, tire retailer or even Wal-Mart, your purchase often entitles you to free rotations for the life of the tires.  Take advantage of it!  Rotating your tires will extend their life and by doing so, save you money!  If you’re handy and have the proper (read: safe) equipment, rotate them yourself.  Always observe the car manufacturer’s recommended sequence for rotating tires.
• Change your engine air filter yourself: Almost every Owner’s Manual will show you exactly how to do this. It usually requires no more than 5 minutes.  Pick up a quality aftermarket filter (WIX, Baldwin, NAPA, Hastings) at an auto parts store, do it yourself, and save anywhere from $10 to $30 each time you replace it!
• Windshield Wiper blade replacement: New wiper blades are cheap insurance. Worn out wiper blades reduce your ability to see clearly during heavy rainstorms, and are dangerous as a result.  Blades are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at ANY auto parts store.  You’ll save significantly if you replace them yourself versus having your dealer replace them.  Why pay your dealer $65+ per hour for labor; you can do this job in a few minutes yourself?!  Change your wiper blades or inserts at least once every 12,000 miles or so. Here’s a quick video that covers the basic of wiper blade replacement:

• Finally, listen to your car.  I vividly remember jumping into my younger son’s car several years ago for a quick drive with him.  After backing out of the driveway, I headed down our street and went all of 300 yards before I pulled over.  Summoning every ounce of my parental tact and diplomacy, I said something like, “Fer Chrissakes, Brian!  Does the car actually have to DISINTEGRATE before you notice it’s got a problem!!!?”  The car was in dire need of a front wheel bearing. That poor thing was grinding away like Britney Spears at the VMA’s, but Brian hadn’t noticed. (He may have been distracted by his audio system, which typically operated at approximately 130 decibels.)  Listen to your car.  When operating normally, it makes normal sounds.  Just like you, if something goes awry, it makes bad sounds.  And when it does, get it checked out. Bring it to a mechanic you trust and describe its “symptoms.”  Waiting is NEVER a good idea: doing so usually will cost you MORE.

Dealer service: you’ve got money; they want it!

Fact: Dealerships don’t make all that much money on new car sales.  Their heftiest margins are on the crap their Finance Manager manages to fob off on unsuspecting customers, and on service.  Your Owner’s Manual’s Maintenance Schedule is a minefield. Many of the checks and inspections specified are not all that necessary.  You can save yourself  A LOT of money by taking an aggressive approach to navigating through the maintenance schedule.

Here’s a page from the schedule for my G35; click on it for a close-up view:

Before you think I’m an Infiniti basher, let me say:  I love the car and my dealer is actually very good. I am using this schedule merely as an illustration.  Like many manufacturers, Infiniti has a couple of service schedules (I and 2) and you choose which one is appropriate to your driving conditions.  One of the schedules is for normal driving conditions, the other for extreme driving conditions.

(Infiniti has also added another entire level of service called “Premium Maintenance” – this was apparently designed specifically for people who possess way more money than sense.  I’ll ignore it here.)

Take a look at the Schedule 1 / 2 schedule (they’re the same in this case) for 30,000 miles on my car.  A number of basic services are specified:

1. Replace engine oil and filter
2. Replace climate controlled seat filter ( ! ) (not applicable to G35)
3. Replace engine air filter
4. Replace cabin air filter
5. Rotate tires
6. Inspect 16 separate items

Take the à la carte approach!

My approach to scheduled maintenance with the dealership is simple:  NEVER call the dealer and say you need to schedule a 30K – or 15K, 50K, 75K – any of the scheduled maintenance milestones.

Instead, pull out your Owner’s Manual and take a careful look at the services they’d perform if you DID schedule the recommended maintenance.  Determine which you can have done for you more inexpensively and which you can do yourself. Then call the dealer and tell him specifically what you them to do, and make no mention of the “xxK” service. In the case above, this is what I’d do:

1. Oil/filter change: Quick Lube, provide my own filter.  Put my receipt in the glove box.
2. N/A
3. Air filter: buy one at Advance Auto, NAPA, etc. and replace it myself. Takes 5 minutes. Check your Owner’s Manual. Put the receipt in the glove box.  Alternatively, have the quick lube replace it – it’ll still be cheaper than having the dealer do it.
4. Cabin air filter: Have the dealer replace it – sometime around 50,000 to 60,000 miles
5. Rotate tires: Have the local tire place do it. Save the receipt.
6. Many of these items are covered by the “full” service at most quick lubes; the others are not essential. When I get my tires rotated, I’ll ask the guy writing up the work order to have his mechanic take a peek at the rotors and brake pads. If it makes you feel better, have the dealer check them all at 50,000 or 60,000 miles.  At $85 per hour, I don’t really need someone glancing at the exhaust system; if there’s a problem, I’ll hear it.

If you have the essential maintenance performed on your vehicle, your car will be protected and your warranty will be intact. Most of the inspections are on the list to help the dealer generate revenue. No one ever had their warranty voided because they didn’t have the dealer examine their brake light switch!

A few more ways to save…

Here are a few other car-related ways to save some bucks:

• Don’t abuse your vehicle! Avoid jackrabbit starts, beating the car over rough roads, and just generally treating it poorly.  In the morning, particularly in colder climates, give it 30 seconds or so to warm up a bit before starting out – and take it slow for the first mile or so.  One word:  Karma.  Take it easy on the beast and it’ll last longer
• Raise the deductible on your auto insurance policy. Many of us have a deductible of $500 on our auto policies, but how often do you actually have to file a claim?  If you can handle the heftier deductible should you have an accident and be at fault, consider raising the deductible to $1000.  You’ll save a hefty amount of money over time
• Slow down. Trim your lead foot back a bit and enjoy higher mileage – with gas still hovering around $2 per gallon, these savings will add up quickly.  Your blood pressure will likely go down as well – give it a try

Share your money saving tips!

If you have techniques you’ve used to save on auto expenses, please join the discussion by commenting. And remember:  be safe out there!

Image: bonked producer

If you’re buying a new car, there is one thing you absolutely must NOT do: do not, under any circumstances, agree to purchase any dealer installed options. Let me quickly point out that I’m not referring to items like spoilers or audio equipment, although you ought to be careful there as well. I’m referring to dealer options like…

…paint sealant, undercoating, or fabric/stain guard. Let’s take a quick look at these options:

Paint Sealant

Using a polymer paint sealant is a wonderful idea; I’ve written about it here. The problem with the dealer option is that they’ll want to charge you $300 – $500 for paint sealant. This option costs them less than $20. As I point out in the article linked to above, you can buy everything you need to seal your paint for ~$45, and have enough material to last several years. Please don’t do this. Bring the car to a qualified auto detailer or do it yourself. Savings: $250 to $400

Undercoating

Whenever I hear a dealer speak about undercoating, I feel as though I’ve somehow traveled back in time. Undercoating was something we considered 30 years ago. Modern vehicles typically come with extensive warranties with regard to rust-through. For a dealer selling such a car to suggest undercoating is ludicrous. Please don’t fall for this. Savings: $200 to $300

Fabric Guard

Dealers will also try to sell you on a fabric guard or stain protection for your interior for up to $500. All the dealer does is apply 3M Scotchguard® to the cloth interior; their cost is $10-$20. If you want to protect your cloth interior, go to an auto parts store and buy a can or two of Scotchguard® an apply it yourself. Savings: $475+

Other thoughts…

Dealers will also try to sell pinstriping, clear bras, and other add-ons. Proceed VERY carefully when it comes to any dealer installed option. Clear bras offer a great deal of protection to the paint on your vehicle’s hood, and (depending upon what you opt for) front bumper & outside rear view mirrors. From personal experience however, I can tell you that the typical car dealer is not a philanthropic enterprise and they will mark up items like clear bras tremendously. Look around for a reputable installer and have the work done yourself!

Consumer Reports’ Opinion on Dealer-Installed Options

Here’s what CR had to say about these types of options:

Guide to Buying and Leasing
Q: Why should I reject extended warranties, rust proofing, fabric protection, “pre-delivery inspection” charges, and the like?
A: They are generally worthless or overpriced, particularly for vehicles that have a high reliability Rating.

Whatever you do, please avoid these sorts of ripoffs from your friendly neighborhood auto dealership. Save your money – or use that cash to increase your down payment!

Ever wonder what auto detailers use to clean glass – or interiors – or wheels? Or how they get that spectacular show-car shine? A few years ago I became moderately obsessed with detailing and began frequenting detailing forums and experimenting with products the pros recommended. In this post I’ll cover some of the favorite tips and tricks I’ve gleaned from conversations with detailers and the detailing forums; best of all, some of the products they use are readily available locally!

I’ll cover these tips in bullet points; if you need more information, please comment below or email me.

Proper wash sequence:

• Most detailers detail the interior first, so it’ll be dry when the customer picks up his/her car; a secondary reason is that if done second, dust and dirt from shaking out floor mats and/or from vacuuming can get on the clean/waxed exterior
• When it comes to washing:
  • Start with cleaning the wheels (and if you wish, the wheel wells) to prevent any backsplash/splatter from wheel dirt getting on the paint (products recommended for the wheels vary; see below)
  • Once the wheels have been done start with the roof and then wash all windows
  • Next do the hood and trunk; hose everything off and then wash the fenders and doors
  • Most pros use wash mitts, with one mitt designated (and so marked) for above the beltline of the car, and the other marked and used only below the beltline – that is, the lower doors and rocker panels. Never use the “lower” mitt on the “upper” surfaces, as that mitt will see much more dirt, grime and grit than the other mitt
  • Wash out mitts by putting the hose inside them and blasting the dirt out of the mitt’s pores
  • Also, most pros use a “two bucket” method - one bucket with water and car wash for wetting the mitts & then washing the car, and the second bucket with a weaker solution of car wash – this second bucket is used for cleaning the used mitts BEFORE they are put back into bucket number one. (The second bucket is normally equipped with a “grit grate” at its bottom – so the user can rub the mitt across the grate to dislodge dirt and grit.) The idea is to get any grit or dirt OFF the mitt before putting it back into the clean car wash bucket and applying soap to the car’s finish
  • After hosing off the vehicle, the pros use the “sheeting” method of rinsing to get most of the water off the vehicle before drying
  • To use this method, hold the hose end (if it’s metal, hold it between your thumb and fingers so the metal can’t possibly rub against the paint.) Rinse off the surfaces by holding the hose end an inch or two off the surface – you’ll find that the water will flow off the vehicle in a sheeting action, leaving very few droplets. Drying it is then a snap!

• A word about drying: DO NOT use cotton towels, that old rag you have lying on your workbench, etc. The pros use HIGH QUALITY waffle weave microfiber cloths for drying their customers’ vehicles, as high quality MF will not cause micro-marring in the vehicle’s finish. See this post about high quality waffle weave towel
• A word about car wash solution: use a quality car wash solution. DO NOT, under any circumstances, use dish detergent soap – it will strip off ALL of the wax and protectant on your car. Your local auto parts store should carry several decent brands

Cleaning Glass:

• Important: get some quality microfiber cloths and mark one or two of them with a “G” and use these towels only for cleaning your car’s glass. If you use them with polishes or waxes, you’ll never fully get the residue from those materials out of the fibers, and it’ll prevent you from getting your glass perfectly clean
• Glass cleaners: the favorites are Stoner’s Invisible Glass, Sprayway, or a water-alcohol mix. Stoner’s is widely available and I believe it’s sold at both Wal-Mart, Ace Hardware and Target. I usually buy the aerosol version; the stuff works amazingly well. (I also use it on a couple of large windows in our home, and it works better than anything else I’ve tried.)

Interior Quick – and not so quick – Clean Ups:

• Baby Wipes are good for quick clean-up of spills, especially on vinyl
• Woolite mxed 6:1 with water makes a great, inexpensive interior cleaner that’s also safe for leather
• Follow-up leather cleaning with a leather conditioner – there are several good ones on the market; I prefer Zaino’s, but check your local auto parts store; you can’t go wrong with just about anything from Meguiars
• Make sure you wax or if using a polymer sealant, seal/wax the door jams and sill plates – it’ll give the vehicle a much cleaner overall look when your passengers get in the car
• To Armor-All or to not Armor-All: please don’t. That shiny, slippery look may have been great in the 1970′s, but not today. Many many detailers instead use a product called 303 Aerospace protectant.

Here’s the description from the Cabela’s catalog:

“Protect and restore all your vinyl, gel-coat fiberglass, rubber, plastics and leather with 303. Engineered for aerospace and aviation applications, this is the world’s highest-rated UV-screening product. It offers 100% prevention of UV-caused slow fade, and it restores lost color and luster on items that have already faded. It’s not oily or greasy, so it won’t discolor or stain. Prevents dust, soiling and staining on all kinds of surfaces. For use in automotive, marine and RV applications, and even pools.”

I’ve used 303 for years and it’s very, very good. It leaves your interior plastic and vinyl surfaces looking factory fresh and seems to last a long time – all without that garish shine you get with that other product! 303 is available via the internet; here’s a link to the manufacturer. Many other websites carry it as well.

Mechanical Car Washes

• NEVER bring your car to an automatic car wash that has vinyl, rubber, or felt strips that touch your car – they’re loaded with dirt and grit and will really mar the clear coat on your vehicle’s finish. If you must use an automated car wash, go to the “touchless” type
• Again, when drying your car, use high quality microfiber towels – nothing else. Using any old towel you have lying around will cause micro-marring in the finish – those swirl marks you see when you look at cars’ finishes in the sun

Cleaning Wheels:

• There are many different products out there – which you use will be determined by just how dirty your wheels are
• If they’re quite dirty, Eagle One’s A2Z Wheel and Tire Cleaner is a good solution – spray it on, let it foam, work it with a (suitable) brush for a moment, and hose it off. Note that it is not recommended for factory painted wheels, motorcycle wheels, and some anodized wheels. Many detailers use A2Z to clean tires… spray it on, scrub it with a brush (don’t use this brush for anything else!) and hose off thoroughly. Your local auto parts store should carry A2Z.

• For chrome and alloy wheels, I’ve had excellent results by simply using Stoner’s Invisible Glass and a good microfiber cloth to wipe it off! This works great with wheels that aren’t heavily soiled or dirty with brake dust; if your wheels are pretty dirty, go with the heavier duty stuff like the Eagle 1 product

Cleaning Wheel Wells:

• For more of a fully detailed look, clean the inside of your wheel wells – hose them down, scrub them with an appropriate brush (not to be used anywhere else on the vehicle!) and when they’re dry, give them a liberal coating of tire foam – it’ll make them shine like new
• If you’re cleaning the interior of your engine compartment, some pros use tire foam on the underhood plastic and rubber parts – spray on, wipe off

Waxing

• If using a conventional wax, spray a little (exterior) Quick Detailer on your pad first – makes your application easier!
• If you’re interested in pursuing polymer sealants as an alternative to conventional car waxes (and I recommend you do) see my post about Zaino polymer sealants – includes before and after pictures.

In a follow-up post I’ll address getting rid of micro-marring and scratches in your paint’s clear coat.

That’s all for now – please share your detailing secrets!

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Years ago I was driving from Albany to Oswego NY late at night when I realized the rear end of my car was acting oddly – it felt loose, particularly when I went around turns. I pulled over and discovered that my left rear tire was almost completely flat. The good news: I had a spare tire and functioning jack. The not so good news: I was on the side of a 2 lane road about 100 yards past a big sweeping curve, it was pitch black out, I had no flashlight and no way to warn any cars coming around that turn. Fortunately I was able to get the flat off and the spare tire on the car and get on my way without mishap, but it was a bit of a scary experience.

Since then I’ve carried an emergency kit in my trunk, and it’s given me peace of mind and has come in very handy a couple of times over the years. If you’ve got about $50 and 15 minutes, you can have a terrific roadside emergency kit in your trunk.

Disclaimer: I am not suggesting you go out and buy the individual items for your kit, although that’s certainly an option. Any Wal-Mart or any decent auto parts store carries basic roadside emergency kits; I suggest you purchase one and then augment it with several additional items.

The kit shown below was actually purchased from Woot.com for less than $20. Wal-Mart sells a basic emergency kit for $20 and a slightly more elaborate one for $30. These kits usually contain the basics:

In this case, it contains:

• Tire inflator (cigarette lighter plug)
• Flashlight
• Jumper cables (not the best cables around, but serviceable)
• Gloves
• Bungee cord
• Folding warning triangle
• Tire pressure gauge
• A couple of simple hand tools – pliers, screwdriver

To this I suggest you add several items as pictured below.

• First aid kit
• Extra batteries
• Disposable camera
• Lightsticks or other back-up light source
• Wire/zip ties
• Roll of duct tape (of course!!)
• A few granola bars (Clif bars are shown here)
• Shop rags
• Germicide to make water potable (sold in the camping supplies dept.)
• 4-way screwdriver
• Extra fuses & fuse puller (make sure you get the right type for your car – most cars manufactured in the last decade use mini fuses)
• Can of Fix-a-Flat — for quick, on the fly flat tire repairs — NOTE: does not work well in cold temps!
• Leatherman tool
• Bottled water
• Knife
• A plastic poncho

With the exception of the Leatherman tool, all of these items are available at Wal-Mart or similar stores and you can purchase all of them in a matter of 10-15 minutes. Then just find a suitable bag (a small nylon gym bag would be fine) to hold everything and put it in your trunk.

Another obvious option would be to include a few road flares.

If you live in an area with tough winters, consider adding a shovel, blanket, ice scraper (although you’d presumably have this in your car anyway) and you may want to consider a couple of cans of Sterno and a small camping-style saucepan (for melting snow if you REALLY get stranded!)

A small battery or (better yet) crank powered portable radio is also worth consideration. Wal-Mart (and no, I’m by no means a big fan of Wal-Mart, it just happens to be convenient for a lot of people) sells this crank-powered emergency radio/light for $20; here’s a link.

Take a few minutes this weekend and put together a roadside emergency kit for your car – with summer vacations and travel imminent, this is the perfect time to put a little peace of mind in your trunk!

Thanks for visiting, and let me know if you think I’ve missed anything essential! As always, if you like what you see here, please subscribe by clicking any of the 3 options at the top of the right hand column.

-kc 6/13/08